Plumbing
Everything about residential plumbing — supply, drainage, fixtures, water heaters, and pipes. What breaks, how to fix it, when to call a licensed plumber.
Overview
Residential plumbing is two systems in parallel: supply (pressurized cold and hot water reaching every fixture) and drainage (gravity-fed wastewater leaving through drains, traps, and vents). Both intersect at fixtures — sinks, toilets, tubs, showers, appliances.
Most plumbing problems are localized and fixable in under an hour. The exceptions we do NOT teach as DIY: gas line work, main sewer replacement, and anything requiring soldering copper if you've never done it. For those, licensed plumber. Everything else on this page is either fix-it-yourself or 'here's the diagnosis you'll need to explain to the plumber.'
Most common fixes
The highest-search-volume issues in this system, each fully documented with safety-first framing, ranked causes, and cost estimates.
Sub-categories
Every corner of this system, organized by function. Click into any sub-category for the full fix and project inventory.
Toilets
Running, clogged, weak flushes, leaks around base, replacement guides.
Faucets & fixtures
Dripping, low pressure, cartridge replacement, aerator cleaning, faucet installation.
Drains & sewers
Clogged sinks and tubs, main line issues, drain augering, vent stack problems.
Water heaters
Electric and gas water heaters — diagnostics, element replacement, tank flushing, sizing.
Pipes & connections
Copper, PEX, PVC. Repairs, transitions, freeze prevention, and repipe considerations.
Outdoor plumbing
Hose bibs, sprinklers, sewer lateral, sump pumps.
Appliance connections
Dishwasher hookup, washer supply lines, refrigerator water line, ice maker connections.
Materials used in this system
Tools you'll need
Project cost guides
What we do NOT teach as DIY
Some plumbing work is licensed-plumber only regardless of your experience:
- Any gas connection work (water heater, range, dryer, furnace)
- Main water line and sewer lateral replacement
- Backflow preventer installation and testing (usually requires state cert)
- Work requiring permits in your jurisdiction (varies by state — check locally)
For these topics we provide identification, emergency protocols, and hiring guidance — not step-by-step DIY. See safety disclaimer for the full list.
Frequently asked questions
Water fixes (leaks, clogs, running toilets, faucet drips) are almost always DIY-safe. Gas connections, main line work, sewer laterals, and anything behind walls or under slabs is plumber territory. When in doubt, err toward calling — a $150 diagnostic visit is cheaper than water damage.
Know the location before you need it. Main shutoff is usually in the basement, crawl space, or utility closet where the water enters your home. In warmer climates, it may be outside near the meter. Confirm you can turn it — old shutoffs seize; if yours won't turn, replace it before you need it.
PEX in most cases — cheaper, faster to install, freeze-tolerant, no soldering. Copper is longer-lasting (75+ years) and preferred in high-heat applications. Both are code-compliant everywhere in the US. See PEX pipe overview.
Annually. Sediment buildup causes popping noises, reduces efficiency, and shortens element life. Full flush takes 30 minutes and extends tank life significantly.