Door won't latch
A door that won't latch closed usually just needs strike plate adjustment — the latch and strike aren't lined up. 15-minute fix with a screwdriver. Sometimes hinge adjustment is needed, or the strike plate needs to be repositioned.
Quick answer
Look at the strike plate (the metal piece on the door frame where the latch enters). Compare its position to where the latch bolt hits when the door is closed. Usually the latch is hitting above, below, or to the side of the strike hole. Fix: either file/enlarge the strike hole slightly, or reposition the strike plate up/down. Sometimes the door itself has dropped from a loose top hinge — replace the top hinge screw with a 3-inch screw that reaches the framing.
Key facts
| Difficulty | Easy |
|---|---|
| Time | 15–30 min |
| Parts cost | $0–$10 |
| Tools needed | Screwdriver, file (metal), pencil |
| Parts needed | None typically |
What's happening
A door latches when the spring-loaded bolt on the door edge enters the hole in the strike plate on the door frame. Everything needs to align: door not sagging, hinges tight, latch mechanism working, and strike plate positioned correctly.
Over time, doors settle. Screws loosen. Wood expands and contracts with humidity. Any of these can throw off the latch-strike alignment.
The most common issue is the door has sagged slightly, causing the latch to hit above or below the strike hole. Fix: either move the strike plate or address the sagging door.
Common causes (ranked by frequency)
- Strike plate misalignment 50% of cases
Latch hits above, below, or to the side of the strike hole. Easy fix — file the hole slightly or reposition the plate.
- Door sagging (loose top hinge) 25% of cases
Door has dropped, changing latch position. Fix by driving a 3-inch screw through the top hinge into the framing.
- Latch mechanism sticking 10% of cases
Latch bolt doesn't spring out fully due to dirt, paint, or wear. Lubricate or replace.
- Door warped 10% of cases
Wood door has warped from moisture. Latch position varies with humidity. May need door replacement or adjustment.
- Handle mechanism failure 5% of cases
Internal latch mechanism worn out. Replace the handle/latch assembly.
How to diagnose
Step 1 — observe the failure. Close the door slowly. Watch where the latch bolt hits. Compare to the strike hole position.
- Latch hits above strike hole: Door has dropped, or strike plate needs to move up.
- Latch hits below strike hole: Door has risen (unusual), or strike plate needs to move down.
- Latch hits inside the strike hole but door doesn't stay closed: Latch not extending fully into hole — hole may need enlarging inward or strike plate has shifted outward.
Step 2 — check the door for sagging. Close the door and look at the gap around the top. If wider on the latch side, door is sagging from loose top hinge.
Step 3 — check the latch operation. With door open, push the latch bolt in and release. Should spring back out fully with quick force. If sluggish, mechanism issue.
The fixes
File the strike plate opening QUICKEST FIX
Tools
- Metal file
- Pencil
Parts
- None
- Coat the latch bolt with pencil lead or lipstick.
- Close the door slowly against the strike plate — the mark shows exactly where the latch hits.
- File the strike plate opening in the direction needed — usually up or down a small amount.
- Test and repeat until latch enters cleanly.
Reposition the strike plate IF MISALIGNMENT IS LARGE
Tools
- Screwdriver
- Chisel (if needed)
- Wood filler (if needed)
Parts
- Longer screws optional
- Remove the strike plate (two screws).
- Reposition it up or down as needed.
- Mark and drill pilot holes for the new position.
- If the new position doesn't overlap with the mortised recess in the frame, either extend the mortise with a chisel or fill and re-mortise.
- Screw the strike plate in place.
Fix a sagging door (top hinge) IF DOOR HAS DROPPED
Tools
- Screwdriver
- Cordless drill
Parts
- 3-inch wood screw (matching the hinge screw head style)
- Open the door fully.
- Remove one screw from the top hinge (the one attaching the hinge to the door frame).
- Replace with a 3-inch screw that will reach through the door frame into the wall framing.
- Drive firmly to draw the door back into proper position.
- Repeat for the second top hinge screw if needed.
Prevention
Prevent latch issues:
- Check hinge screws annually — tighten if loose.
- Use 3-inch screws in the top hinge from initial installation — better long-term stability.
- Lubricate latches annually — dry graphite lubricant or silicone spray.
- Address sticking doors before they become latch problems — sticky doors indicate movement that will eventually throw off latches.
When to call a pro
- Door is severely warped and won't close properly
- Door frame damaged (splintered around strike area)
- Multiple doors in the house showing latch problems (indicates house settling)
- Exterior door security lock/deadbolt won't latch (security priority)
- You're uncomfortable with chisel or drill work
Handyman cost: $75–$200 for standard door latch adjustment. Door replacement: $150–$450 for interior; $500–$2,000+ for exterior with hardware.
Cost estimate
Frequently asked questions
Wood doors expand in humid weather and contract in dry weather. If the door only latches in one condition, the strike plate is on the edge of alignment. Solution: file the strike hole slightly larger so it accommodates the door in both conditions.
Rarely necessary. Almost always the strike plate needs adjustment or the door has sagged. Try those fixes first — planing is irreversible.
Yes — most smart locks retrofit standard deadbolts. Latch mechanisms are typically kept as-is. See smart lock installation.
They're separate mechanisms with separate strike positions. Deadbolt could be aligned while the latch isn't — different holes in the strike plate. Each needs alignment separately.